Wolkberg Mountains, Northern Drakensberg The people:
BaPedi Co-operative: Mafefe Community Tourism Primary Cooperative Limited Beneficiary villages: Mahatjane, Mogoleng, Mahatjane, Matoong Dublin, Maredi Bublin, Magoleng Mahlatjane Best known for: Gorgeous mountain scenery, rugged 4X4 trails, hiking, mountain biking "You need double 4X4 to get to Mafefe," said Peterson Phasha, our guide and driver on a recent AIR trip, and from the Mafefe area. "You need the vehicle, and yourself must be 4X4." More specifically, you need a high-clearance, low-range 4X4. The camp sits 1200 metres high up in a craggy Wolkberg peak, surrounded by pastures; the 13-km road up there and back, clay embedded with rocks, is more than a challenge. But the drive to and around Mafefe is part of the attraction - before we ascended the road to camp, Peterson took us to the confluence of the Olifants and Mohlapitsi rivers for a picnic and to a local wedding where people were still partying. By the time we reached camp, just before a magical sunset, we were ready to "chillax," as Peterson often recommends, in this uniquely beautiful place. Mafefe has five thatched rondavels, each with two three-quarter beds (no linen is provided), chairs and small table. Ablutions are communal, with flush toilets, showers and hand basins. Kitchen and dining facilities are also communal, with a gas hob, refrigerator, freezer and essential pots, crockery and cutlery provided. There's a communal braai area outside the kitchen; don't forget to bring wood. There's no electricity, so light comes from solar and paraffin lanterns - all the better to see the thousands of stars up there on a clear night.
Letaba Ranch Reserve, nestled under jackalberry trees (Mtomeni" ='jackalberry) on the banks of the Letaba River Co-operative: Selomba Tourism Primary Co-operative Limited (Mtomeni) Beneficiary villages: Selwane, Lulekani, Mbaula, Phalaubeni, Majeje The people: VaTsonga, BaPedi Best known for: Big Five game viewing, birdlife I'm quite jaded when it comes to game viewing, but my Mtomeni experience was one of the best in nearly 30 years. Letaba Ranch's 43,000 hectares border Kruger, and the fences between them have come down. Game meanders along the Letaba River, which fronts the camp roughly 15 metres away. Game drives and walks with inimitable camp guides Edwin Muneri, whom we nicknamed "The Birdman' due to his extensive knowledge of and passion for all things bird, and Richard Ramadisha have likely encounters with at least some of the Big Five, and definite exposure to an infinite number of fascinating facts about the natural world. Mtomeni's seven new safari tents, raised on wooden decks facing the river, are supremely comfortable. Three-quarter beds, two per tent, and en suite bathrooms with running water and spacious new showers add to the comfort. Electricity is solar, including new charging units in the tents (USB and 12 V/cigarette lighter). The elevated communal open kitchen and dining areas have basic solar lighting, as well as new solar-charged fridges and freezers, gas hob and all necessary cutlery, pots, and crockery. You can also recharge your 12V camping freezer. A recycling waste-management plan has been introduced. A large boma with directors chairs and a braai looks out directly on the Letaba River, a fine place to put your feet up on the stone retaining wall and see what meanders past. Guests are advised to bring drinking water and wood, and to take precautions against malaria.
Near the Klein Letaba River in a mopani forest The people:
Valsonga Co-operative: Mahumani Lodge and Multi-Purpose Primary Cooperative Limited Beneficiary villages: Selwane, Lulekani, Mbaula, Phalaubeni, Majeje Best known for: Ancient salt harvesting and a sacred spring The highlights of Baleni Camp, aside from the peace and isolation of the rondavels hidden in hectares of mopani, are watching local women harvest and process salt from the Klein Letaba River, and learning how to respectfully approach the local sacred spring, Ka Mkhulu, said to wash bad luck away. Make sure you bring some Baleni salt home with you, either to cook with - it's being used by renowned chefs around the world - or for healing or protective purposes. Buy direct from the harvesters - and a nearby sangoma can fill you in on the salt's various applications. Baleni is also a great spot to pick up the Rixile Culture to Kruger Route and is one of the stars of the route. Guests are housed in five traditional rondavels, each with three-quarter beds and en suite toilet, hand basin and shower. Rondavels, colourfully painted with playing-card designs introduced years ago by missionaries, are scattered throughout a grove of mopani trees. Communal areas include a huge fire pit and an open-air kitchen with gas hob, refrigerator, freezer, pots, crockery and cutlery. With recent renovations, solar lighting/power has been introduced, including solar charging units with USB and 12 V (cigarette lighter) plugs. The kitchen has charging facilities for your 12V camping freezer. Don't forget firewood and because the water is saline, bring your own drinking water.
An ancient cycad reserve, ruled for centuries by the Rain Queen The people:
BaLobedu Co-operative: Modjadji African Ivory Route Primary Cooperative limited Beneficiary villages: Khethakong, Seopeng, Madumane, Morwatshehla, Mothomeng, Mahawa. Best known for: Modjadji, the Rain Queen, and the prehistoric cycads Since 1800, the BaLobedu people in the lush, forested mountains just north of Tzaneen have been ruled by Modjadji, the Rain Queen; the seventh Modjadji, Masalanabo, will be coronated in six years when she turns 18. South Africa's only matrilineal dynasty - preceded by centuries of kings - is still largely shrouded in secrets. Each year in October the BaLobedu people gather for the rainmaking ceremonies held in the BaLobedu Royal Kraal, over which Modjadji presides. The Rain Queen's aura prevails in Modjadji village as well as in the cycad forest, where one imagines dinosaurs emerging at any moment. Or at least strolling through something similar 50 million years ago. Nestled in the cycad forest, five rondavels each offer two three-quarter beds and en suite toilet, hand basin and very roomy shower. Rondavels are painted in striking traditional BaLobedu geometric designs. Recent renovations have brought solar lighting/power to camp, including innovative charging units in rooms using solar energy stored in batteries - USB and 12 V (cigarette lighter) charging available. A new borehole and water harvesting mechanisms have also been part of the upgrade. Communal kitchen and dining areas are well stocked with crockery, cutlery, pots, a gas hob, fridge and freezer, as well as a tank for fresh drinking water. There's a fire pit mid-camp (bring wood) for sharing local legends and other stories, under the coral tree.